A guitar’s nut and saddle are the two strips of material – usually made of bone or melamine on a quality classical, acoustic or flamenco guitar – that serve as the support points of the strings. The nut is located at the joint between the headstock and fretboard, and the saddle is found on top of the bridge, which is positioned in the centre of the lower bout of the soundboard.
The nut and saddle stretch the strings tightly between them to ensure they vibrate in a stable and controlled way, so that when you play your instrument, it produces a powerful and clean sound.

The grooves of the nut secure the guitar’s strings at a uniform lateral placement, and guide them from the tuning pegs, down the neck to the saddle. The cut and fit of the nut needs to be flawless: if the grooves are too wide, the strings can slip, causing an unwanted buzzing sound; but if they are too narrow, they will pinch the strings, making it difficult for you to keep them in tune, as well as tuning them accurately in the first place: in fact, this small, unassuming component of your guitar is, in all likelihood, the culprit of most of the tuning problems you may be encounter.
Passerelle Guitar Bridge
In case of the above, you would be forgiven for assuming your tuning machines are to blame, but it’s not always all in the name. Before replacing your far more conspicuous (and expensive) tuning machines, it’s well worth checking out your nut first. To make sure all is in order, lift a string out of the groove: it should come out easily, without snagging. Similarly, check there is no room for any sideward movement of the strings within the grooves. If your nut fails either of these tests, it’s probably time to replace it, which, unless you have the specialized tools and precision skills to do it properly, is best left to an experienced guitar technician.
The saddle, like the nut, spaces the strings at an equidistance, but also serves to hold the strings at the desired height above the fingerboard. Otherwise known as
, this height needs to be calibrated to perfection, as it has an impact on the sound, as well as the playability of the instrument: too high and the guitar will be uncomfortable to play; too low, and it will affect the clarity of the sound and the volume. This is why the action of the strings on a flamenco model is lower than that of a classical instrument: it produces that distinctive flamenco buzz, as well as making it easier to play for long periods of time.
Faq › La Sonanta
The low string action of the Prudencio Saez 15 Flamenco guitar contributes to its characteristically flamenco sound, as well as to its easy playability
When you strum your guitar, the saddle transmits the vibrations of the strings from the bridge to the top wood, or soundboard, and for this purpose, they are bent over the saddle at an angle. As well as the stress of the curvature, the saddle must be able to support the pressure produced by the string tension: this is why the saddle needs to be made of a material that is both strong and durable.
Most guitar makers in Spain use either bone or melamine to make the saddle and the nut of their quality instruments – and generally use the same material on a particular model for both. Bone and melamine are hard, dense and very light materials, and offer great resonance and sustain. And both have excellent sound-transmitting properties.
Toned Shot Of An Acoustic Spanish Guitar High Res Stock Photo
Although it has to be said that bone is considered superior to melamine (and consequently is traditionally used for most top of the range models), in the end, the choice the luthier makes comes down to achieving the most balanced and desirable sound on each model. The classical conservatory guitar Alhambra 7P Classic, for example, has a melamine nut and saddle and produces a sound that is close to perfection.
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There’s no doubt, a professional musician or concert guitarist will be able to appreciate a difference in sound between that of a guitar with a bone and melamine nut and saddle: their ears are finely attuned to pick up every subtle difference in tone, and their instrument is their work tool and hence a worthy investment.
But for anyone else who wishes to purchase a mid-range instrument, or student model, with an excellent quality to price ratio, a well-made guitar from Spain with melamine nut and saddle will hit the spot. And strike the right chord.Guitars need a bridge to connect the strings with the soundboard. If the bridge of a guitar is too heavy, too weak or not connected properly to the strings or top it will seriously hurt the acoustic characteristics. Always take care that it will not be the source of any energy loss. Above that, the reaction on the movement of the strings should be as fast as possible. A flexible piece of wood will absorb energy; so we have to look for a light bridge, made of hard material. Ebony and rosewood are most in use. The choice between these types of wood may be influenced by aesthetic arguments. For instance by choosing the same wood for the bridge as for the back, sides, head veneer, the finger board or the sound-hole rosette.
Small Guitar In Madagascan Rosewood
The same argument holds for the saddle. Materials most in use are ivory, bone or ebony. But you can take any hard material e.g. horn, mother-of-pearl, glass etc. As long as the saddle can be immovably fixed to the bridge, the choice is open and again mostly based on aesthetic arguments.
The strings have to be connected to the bridge. This obvious starting point is leading in the design of the length and the profile of the middle part of the bridge. Just take a piece of scribbling paper and draw all kinds of different profiles to connect the strings to that mid-section at the same time minimizing the cross-section. You will undoubtedly end up with a profile that is very close to the well-known bridge forms in current classical guitars. The length of that middle part will be at least 6 cm and the width (parallel to the longitudinal axis of the guitar) 20 to 30mm. In the following we will discuss in detail the different aspects you have to deal with.

First the location and profile of the saddle have to be chosen. Here the question of compensation is important. Because the fretted strings are stretched the pitch of that string will be slightly increased. By moving the saddle a little away from the head you can compensate for that effect. It looks like a minor problem, but it is complicated because this compensation is different for the individual strings and also because the stiffness of the strings asks for an extra compensation. In a thorough study of Greg Beyers (ref. 7) a twofold compensation is recommended:
What Is The Difference Between Spanish Guitar And Acoustic Guitar?
For guitars with a 0-fret, compensation at the nut must be the same for all strings. In the design of the EB-guitars this compensation is limited to a fixed shortening of 0.5 mm (by which the 0-fret is moved towards the first fret).
From the calculations and measurements as given in ref. 7 it can be derived that an arrangement of two straight separated saddles is enough to provide the necessary compensation. This saddle arrangement is shown in image Saddle arrangement.
In this figure the distance between the 0-fret and the front of the bridge is taken as 647 mm. The numbers on the left side give the distance to the front of the bridge. In the design of the EB-guitars the scale length is 648 mm and the compensated scale lengths are: 650.0, 648.8, 648.5, 649.7, 648.9 and 648.5 mm for the strings E-low to E-high.
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S Martin & Coupa Spanish Style Guitar
The width of the middle part of the bridge of classical guitars varies between 25 and 30 mm. This number is important for the efficiency with which the energy of the strings is passed via the saddle to the soundboard. For a specific string the moment (F
* hs) should be transferred to waves in the top. With a rigid bridge the energy loss in this process depends on the extent to which this moment conforms to the width of the bridge and the wavelength of the specific pitch in the soundboard. The energy loss during this transport is frequency dependent, but for most of the pitches involved we like to minimize the width of the bridge anyway. The same holds with regards to our wish to minimize the mass of the bridge. From a physical point of view the height of the saddle should be in the same magnitude as the width of the bridge. Increasing the height of the saddle will influence the sound level in different ways. If the height of the saddle is increased from 10 to 20 mm the length of the strings will increase with ~ .25 mm, resulting in a completely negligible change of the sound volume.
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