Do not try to force the peg out using the string, the ball presses against the peg to lock it in place and you can damage your peg slot by forcing it.
Loosen all the strings, enough to get your hand in the sound hole. If your hand is small enough, reach in the sound hole and locate the end of the pin that is broken. Grab it and gently wiggle it while pushing up.
If it doesn't loosen, I use a small block of wood to gently tap on the peg upwards. You may have to remove the other strings and pegs to get access.
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If that doesn't work, you may be able to insert a small stiff wire from the top in the string hole (looking at your picture you may have room). I use a small Allen wrench that is used for electric guitars, or a stiff piece of piano wire and press down on the string ball. You are trying to move the ball end of the string down the peg.
If it is still stuck, then you will need a small drill bit, smaller that the peg hole opening. Carefully drill out the plastic a little ways down and then try working the peg up from the inside again.
Have you tried loosening the string yet? Most pegs are designed to slip up and out when the string tension is released. Once loosened, try pushing the string down into the hole by gripping it as near to the bridge as you can and giving it a wiggle. If it still doesn't budge, follow the previous post's instructions by taking all of the strings off and attempting to push it upwards from inside. I've successfully used the back of a long wooden spoon in the past.
Is There A Way To Fix This? The E String Thing Is Slightly Raised More Than The Others And I'm Not Sure If It's Bad Or Not..
An alternative to drilling - should you need to go that far - might be to find a small, sharp, self-tapping screw that you could work into the remaining plastic and then pull upwards, being extra careful not to screw into the wood of the bridge.
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...is there such a thing? I can't find anything on line but it seems like I've seen them before. My new 12 string uses bridge pins and it cramps my style when doing palm muting, they get in the way. I'm used to and Ovation bridge which doesn't use pins: I think it's a superior design. You can see that the saddle crown is not at all obstructed, unlike a bridge with pins:
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Put your strumming hand closer to the sound hole, don't ride the bridge with your hand. It's a bad habit, but you can break it.
I don't think you understand what palm muting is. It's not a bad habit, it's an effective technique. I don't ride the bridge, I use it when I want to variable mute. The edge of the palm has to be touching the bridge saddle in varying pressures depending on what kind of mute I want, from just clicks all the way up to only slight muting. Strumming with my hand closer to the sound hole will stop the string vibration all together.
Originally Posted By: ulankHave you considered foot muting? Originally Posted By: Dan BarnesYes: http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h252/crumbar/0abb079d-704c-4b25-9c8f-a2f51962d5d6.jpg?t=1406612474 Ewww...that sort of thing leads to Athletes' Tongue...
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I understand what you're saying regarding palm muting, DB. Personally, I've never found the bridge pins to be much of a problem...I just rest my hand on them, as well. I replaced one set of stock plastic rounded bridge pins with flat-topped Brass ones on my Seagul. Supposedly the Brass ones add to the sustain...AND, they are slightly less intrusive, as they have a flat top to them, instead of the rounded profile of the typical plastic bridge pins. I believe the ones I used were made by D'Addario? BRB...
Ya know, you can palm mute anywhere the strings are. By the bridge, sound hole, at the end of the neck, in front of the sound hole, or behind it. You can also use your feet?
I don't understand your problem, Dan. Rest the edge of your pick hand right on the bridge and just press towards the the headstock. Should mute, regardless of how the strings are actually secured.
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I can kinda see how they might feel funny if you're not used to muting with bridge pins; but yeah, it shouldn't be a show stopper....might just have to adjust the technique a bit. That said, I don't have an acoustic handy at the moment, but I don't think the bridge pins ever get in the way for me when palm muting.... I've played ovations and regular acoustics a ton and neither has struck me as....problematic.
My Taylor is like the first-strung through the bridge. They did it in the early 90s (and then stopped as I understand it).... I will say that my bridge has pulled a little when I switched to 13s. I'm not sure I'd call it a superior design because of that. I WILL say it's SO much easier to change the strings than my bridge pin acoustics (now sold, buh bye)...having to keep them in order and having the pull a little as I put tension on the string and pressing them in so hard it hurt my finger...it's definately a superior design for that--maybe with a little extra bracing....but, I can't say they ever really got in the way once the guitar was strung....obviously YMMV....I don't do much in the way of palm muting acoustic guitar, I guess. But, I'm not sure I pick close enough to the bridge for that to matter much.
I struggle with palm muting going from guitar to guitar. It usually takes me a little time to adjust going from say a tunamatic bridge to a bridge with pins. And I have to be really careful with any guitar that has a trapeze tailpiece lest I move the palm too far back and press on the strings behind the bridge. That can wresk havoc on the tuning. And palm muting a Tele that has the ashtray style tailpiece (with the ashtray removed) can be really tricky sometimes depending on how I'm holding the guitar.
How To String Acoustic Guitar
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