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Build your own electric guitar tuner using the Arduino! I decided to make this because I wanted to experiment with audio input and frequency detection. I used Amanda Ghassaei's method for Arduino Frequency Detection in order to get frequency readings using the Arduino. I used LEDs that light up according to the frequency of the audio input, indicating whether the string being played is sharp, flat, or in tune. This works like any other guitar tuner, but you can make it yourself!
Drill a starter hole on the side of your enclosure using a 1/8 drill bit. Drill into the starter hole using a 13/16 spade bit to create a larger hole for the SPST rocker switch. The rocker switch will serve as an on/off switch for the tuner.
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Solder the red end of one of your battery snaps to one of the lugs on the switch and solder a red wire to the other lug of the switch.
The audio signal coming from the electric guitar needs to be amplified to be about 5V peak to peak and and offset to be centered around 2.5V as opposed to 0V. The signal needs to be between 0 and 5V in order for it to be read by the Arduino's analog pin. It should also have the greatest amplitude possible without clipping in order to get more accurate frequency calculations.
I recommend building this circuit on a breadboard and testing it out using an oscilloscope before soldering it together. Your audio input should be the green wire of the audio jack. Connect the black wire of the jack to ground. Attach your scope probe to the output of the DC offset (where the circuit is attached to A0 on the Arduino). Turn the volume on your guitar all the way up and plug your guitar into the audio jack. Play every string and check on the oscilloscope to make sure your signal is centered around 2.5V and that the signal is close to but does not exceed 5V peak to peak.
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Try running this modified version of Amanda's code for Arduino Frequency Detection to test out the Arduino's frequency calculation. The only thing I have changed from her code is I removed the clipping indicator LED and instead printed clipping in the serial monitor whenever the signal clips.
Since the the higher strings have a much lower amplitude signal than the lower strings, it can be tricky to get the frequency detection to work. Amanda's code has a variable called ampThreshold that is the minimum signal amplitude for the Arduino to calculate frequency. For the guitar tuner, the ampThreshold should be high enough that the Arduino calculates the frequency of the higher strings, but also low enough that it does not pick up too much noise from the lower strings. I found that an ampThreshold of 20 works. You have to strum the high strings a bit harder to get the Arduino to pick them up, but the frequency detection works well. You can experiment with other values to get it to work for you. Values ranging from 10 to 30 work okay. For more information on Amanda's algorithm for frequency detection, check out her Instructable: Arduino Frequency Detection.
Solder the red wire on the on/off switch to +VCC (pin 8) on the TL082 chip. Solder the black wire to ground.
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Solder the black wire of the other battery snap to -VCC (pin 4) on the TL082 chip and solder the red wire to ground.
Solder the green wire of the audio jack to the positive input of the op amp on the TL082 (pin 3) and the black wire to ground.
Solder the red wire of the power plug to +VCC (pin 8) and the black wire to ground and insert the plug in the Arduino.
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For my guitar tuner, I chose to laser cut the front of it. I like the look of the white acrylic and the ability to etch the letters and symbols on the front. I have attached a template for the front of the guitar tuner. I used CorelDRAW to create it, but I have also attached it in EPS format.
If you do not have a laser cutter, you can use the normal lid for the enclosure and drill holes into it. Use a 13/64 drill bit and drill six holes for the LEDs indicating which of the six different strings is being tuned and seven holes for the LEDs indicating how sharp or flat the string is. Label the set of six holes with E, A, D, G, B, and E from left to right. Label the middle hole of the set of seven with a triangle pointed toward the hole. Label the rightmost hole with the musical symbol for sharp and the leftmost hole with the musical symbol for flat.
Solder LEDs to your matching PC board. Space the LEDs such that they will fit into the holes of your acrylic front piece. An easy way to do this is lay the front piece on top of your PC board and mark the spacings of the holes on your board using a pen. This way, you know exactly where to solder your LEDs.
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Solder a 150 Ohm resistor to the anode of each LED and a wire from that resistor which will go to one of the pins on the Arduino.
I chose red wire for the LEDs indicating whether the string is in tune and green wire for the LEDs that show which string is being played.
Solder the cathodes of the LEDs to ground and solder a black wire to ground. This black wire will connect to the Arduino's ground.
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Connect the wires on the PC board to the Arduino. The following list indicates which LED should be connected to which pin.
Gently put the front of the tuner onto the front of the enclosure making sure that none of the wires get disconnected.
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