I'm ready to drill the holes for my Tune-o-matic bridge and tailpiece and wondering if i should mark 1.5mm back from scale length for high E and 4.5mm mm back from low E string for correct position?
Also saw a You Tube video where tailpiece was installed first and then guitar was strung, and then bridge was placed in and moved about until correct intonation was found - wondered if anybody has tried it that way?
Tailpiece was installed first and then guitar was strung, and then bridge was placed in and moved about until correct intonation was found - wondered if anybody has tried it that way?
Set Of 2 Nashville Style Guitar Tune O Matic Bridge Posts Guitar Bridge Studs
Thats exactly the way I did it. I packed up the tunomatic with washers to allow for the height of the posts. That allowed me to mark the centres down through the bridge holes. Having done that, it land within a bee's bollock of the 1.5/4.5 intonation line that I'd already drawn.
That's right - you got it! Make sure to drill test holes in scrap first - drill pilot holes - check THREE times 😛
But you need to assemble the guitar to do this and it is not neccessary. Not such a bad idea tho...at least you will know for sure - but once you have done a few you realise it is not so difficult...
New Roller Bridge,6mm Post Hole,tune O Matic Bridge For Les
I've had a long life as an engineer not trusting people and feeling the need to prove things for myself. Imagine if someone told you just to trust them that 17.817 is a magic number, thank you for the detailed explanation. 🙂
Just caught up on Saturdays live stream - thanks for encouragement and the bridge holes did come out where i planned. Looks all good but as i haven't fully assembled the guitar yet they may still turn out to be in the wrong place! I've been spraying the guitar today as i figure there's kind of no going back now - all holes drilled, so should be able to assemble in a day or two. Once those bridge posts are in they're not coming out - hopefully!
Please allow 4-7 days for UK delivery - if you need it faster, OR are outside UK, please message us. THANK YOU ! DismissUpdate: this thing fell apart rather quickly. If you decide to try this, either use something stronger than epoxy putty to hold the threaded screws (I still haven't found out the proper English term) together or find another way basing on the same general principle. I might write another instructable on the subject matter some time. Introduction
Tune O Matic Bridge Installation
In this Instructable I will show you one way to build a simple tool that will help you to install, remove or re-install bridge mounting posts for
Post Tool that is available for purchase at Stewart-MacDonald for $22.95. However, I'm cheap, have no credit card and live in Germany, so apart from not being able to buy/mail-order it in the first place, shipping and taxes would greatly increase the price I'd have to pay for this simple tool.
I'm slowly building up a collection of specialised tools, home-made ones as well as actual professional tools and I figured it wouldn't hurt sharing some information and experience along the way.
Lr Baggs T Bridge Install
There are, of course, much more simple and most likely cheaper ways of achieving this using the same principle as this tool. I'm going to give you alternative ways of building such a tool at the end of this instructable.
On some older electric guitars (as well as some replicas, reissues, copies/knock-offs), the bridge is connected to the body via two threaded posts that are screwed directly into the top of the guitar. The bridge itself rests on two knurled nuts that allow for the height of the bridge to be adjusted. (See first picture) Modern bridge designs, as well as 'stop' tail-pieces, use bushings that are installed in the top of the guitar. These are knurled on the outside and threaded on the inside to accept the post. (See second picture)
If you want to refinish your instrument or install a newer bridge that has poles that require threaded bushings, you will obviously want to remove these posts.
Amazon.com: Musiclily Pro M4 Metric Abr 1 Tune O Matic Bridge Mounting Stud Posts For Epiphone Les Paul Style Electric Guitar, Chrome (set Of 2)
To my knowledge, this type of bridge, the so-called Tune-O-Matic bridge, was introduced by Gibson with their Les Paul model solid body electric guitar in the mid 1950s.
Also, other stringed instruments with arched tops such as mandolins, bouzoukis and hollow-body electric/acoustic guitars with arched tops and backs (aka jazz guitars) use a similar way of installing the bridge. With these, the bridge (often a adjustable Tune-O-Matic style bridge or a compensated wooden bridge) rests upon a wooden base that is scalloped on the underside to fit the arched top.
Put the washer on the screw and then screw the thread-screws on the screw, the prettiest side (i.e. one that isn't slotted) facing the head of the screw as it will be visible when the tool is finished. Make sure that the slot that is usually there to screw the threaded screw into wood on the last screw is facing the end of the contraption. (First schematic)
Guitar Tune O Matic Style Bridge Posts / Studs Mb004, Chrome Finish
If the washer has the same outer diameter as the pipe you are using, you can apply the putty all the way along the thread. If it does not, leave a bit of space between the putty and the washer (See second schematic and photograph).
Now take your cheap screwdriver and insert it into the slot. Put some putty onto both sides of the tip to form a tight plug that safely shuts the inner thread. Leave the putty on the screwdriver and put it aside, this plug will be essentially later. (See 4th schematic)
Now that the putty is hardened, you will want to file/sand off any excess material. File/sand off just enough so that the outer thread is filled and you have an even cylinder. (Third schematic)
Install A Faber® Tone Lock Bridge
Insert that threaded cylinder in the pipe to see if it fits. If it's too narrow, no problem, just add more putty and file/sand down the excess until it fits
Connect the threaded cylinder and the screw driver. If you have done it right, the extra putty on the tip of the screw driver should seal the inner thread perfectly. now measure the length of the part of your tool that will be inserted into the pipe and cut a piece of pipe of the exact same length. If you have chosen a screw driver with a rather long neck, you can also take a shorter piece of pipe.
Insert the threaded cylinder from one end and the screw driver from the other. Ideally, the tip of the screw driver now fits into the slot at the end of the threaded barrel and the washer is levelled with the outside of the pipe.
Gotoh Ge103b T Tune O Matic Guitar Bridge With Stud Posts
Pour some on the inside of the pipe. Be careful, though, you want the resin to rest on the walls of the pipe. Now insert the screwdriver again and make sure the end of the handle and the end of the pipe close tightly. Then add some more resin from the open top
, uniformly distributing it along the inside of the pipe. Then slide in the threaded cylinder and turn it until it's slot latches onto the tip of the screw driver.
The resin should now flow down the inner wall of the pipe and connect the threaded putty cylinder and the screwdriver tip with the pipe.
Gotoh Vintage Post (abr1) 6 String Guitar Bridge
Alternatively, if you have cut a shorter piece of pipe you can just continue where you left after step 3 and pour some of the resin into the back of the pipe until it levels with the edge of the pipe.
After allowing the resin to harden (again, following the instructions given on the package), you can now unscrew the screw that's still in the threaded cylinder (I forgot to draw it in the schematic, though).
If the washer should fall off, that's not a problem. As long as the surface is even, you will be fine. If it isn't, simply fill any cavities with putty and sand/file it flat if necessary.
One Set Of Tune O Matic Bridge With Studs For Lp Style Sg Es Electric Guitar
I chose not to fill up the gap around between the outer pipe and the inner cylinder because it's a) all shiny metal and b) the gap is just at the tip, after the first turn of the thread it looks just like I have drawn it in the schematic.
Foot note: Actually, using this method, it's not necessary that the tip of the driver and the slot at the cylinder seal the cylinder, but I changed my approach in the process of making the tool. Originally, the plan was to leave the cylinder in the pipe and add the resin from the back end and having it cover the inside walls of the cylinder. Then I was to insert the driver and turn the contraption around with the 'business end' facing the ground. The resin would then slowly flow down the pipe and cover the connectin between the driver tip and the cylinder just like pictured in the schematic. Changing my plan allowed for two separate applications of resin
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