Setting the intonation on your headless guitar or bass is key to being able to play in tune. If your instrument is not intonated, then fretted notes will not be in tune even if all the open strings are.
When we intonate our guitar/ bass, what we are doing is simply changing the length of each string so that it matches its “ideal” length. This length is going to vary from one guitar/ bass to the next depending on several factors, including: string gauge, string material, and action (this is important to note if you change your strings to a different set or change the action since you might have to re-intonate).
Of course, no guitar/ bass is going to be perfectly in tune (for that you need those squiggly frets, more properly known as “True Temperament ”), but what we aim for is for the intonation to be as good as it can get.
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Note: It is highly recommended to check the pitch after each adjustment in the playing position. Gravity affects the pitch of a string more than you might think. In this tutorial the guitar is on its back only to give a better view of the demonstration.
1.First we want to make sure that the string is perfectly in tune. A strobe tuner is most desirable since it allows you to be very precise, however, a headstock tuner will do the job as well. Once the string is in tune you want to compare the pitch by playing the octave above, the 12th string. If the note is sharp, the string needs to be lengthened by moving the saddle right. If the note is flat, the string needs to be shortened by moving the saddle left.
3. Take the hex key (which should have been included in your case. If not, you can easily find one at a hardware store.) and loosen the screw holding down the bridge by turning counter-clockwise. Note that this is a monorail bridge and that in order to adjust the position of the saddle, we have to move the whole bridge. (This type of bridge is used on many headless guitars/ basses with some variation, including: Strandberg, Ibanez, Skervesen, Bootlegger, Mayones and many more. Kiesel is among the few to use a different design.)
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4.As stated in step one, you will need to move the bridge depending on its pitch. If it’s sharp, the string needs to be lengthened, if it’s flat, it needs to be shortened. Remember to only move it in small increments at a time.
6.Repeat steps 1 – 5 until the octave matches the open string pitch as closely as possible before moving on to the next strings.Finding headless guitar parts can be a challenge but fortunately, machinist Jon Bondy is making fixed bridge replacements for the headless Steinberger Trans-Trem, S-Trem, and R-Trem bridges.
Bondy’s headless bridge works without modification to the guitar body or its bridge cavity and weighs about 0.75 pounds. Its construction breaks down as follows:
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The Trans Trem, on the other hand, weighs roughly 1.3 pounds so the Bondy bridge also presents an opportunity for significant weight savings.
The impetus for the current bridge project came about as the street price of the Trans Trems (TTs) began to rise, and people began to remove them from their guitars, to sell. They wanted a way to keep the original guitars as functioning instruments, but fixed bridges were not available. Also, quite a few people never used the trem features at all, and wanted a more stable and simpler bridge.
Jon ended up designing a bridge but then found outsourcing in quantities of 10 or so cost-prohibitive. Instead, he took it upon himself to make them in his home shop.
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The bridges have been well received with all of them purchased or spoken for and a second run of 11 targeted for late January 2008 availability. One customer has purchased four of them – “one for his GL, one for his Klein, and two for custom guitars to be built by Rick Canton.”
Some of the parts (tuning slugs and saddles) are very small parts that require a lot of care, and there are a lot of them: I usually do them in batches of 100, and it takes days of very boring and repetitive manual operations. The other is that all of the parts require surface treatment, so that everything is a uniform black, and this step requires a minimum number of parts, and takes over a week at an external vendor.
Many thanks to Jon Bondy for permission to reproduce the images above as well as his generosity in sharing his headless bridge with BTEG readers.
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The Trans Trem, on the other hand, weighs roughly 1.3 pounds so the Bondy bridge also presents an opportunity for significant weight savings.
The impetus for the current bridge project came about as the street price of the Trans Trems (TTs) began to rise, and people began to remove them from their guitars, to sell. They wanted a way to keep the original guitars as functioning instruments, but fixed bridges were not available. Also, quite a few people never used the trem features at all, and wanted a more stable and simpler bridge.
Jon ended up designing a bridge but then found outsourcing in quantities of 10 or so cost-prohibitive. Instead, he took it upon himself to make them in his home shop.
Headless Guitar Bridge, Guitar Bridge Copper Match Standard Design For Playing
The bridges have been well received with all of them purchased or spoken for and a second run of 11 targeted for late January 2008 availability. One customer has purchased four of them – “one for his GL, one for his Klein, and two for custom guitars to be built by Rick Canton.”
Some of the parts (tuning slugs and saddles) are very small parts that require a lot of care, and there are a lot of them: I usually do them in batches of 100, and it takes days of very boring and repetitive manual operations. The other is that all of the parts require surface treatment, so that everything is a uniform black, and this step requires a minimum number of parts, and takes over a week at an external vendor.
Many thanks to Jon Bondy for permission to reproduce the images above as well as his generosity in sharing his headless bridge with BTEG readers.
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