Electric Guitar Truss Rod Types

Electric Guitar Truss Rod Types

Truss rods are a fantastically simple innovation for addressing multiple neck & action issues. If it’s so simple though, why is this article necessary? Well, after receiving an email from a first-time builder wondering about the plausibility of creating an entirely aluminum guitar, the need to break things down visually became clear.

There are multiple truss rod ‘styles’, but all of them follow the same basic mechanical principles. They are embedded in the neck, span the length of the nut to neck’s end, and have a mechanism for increasing tension between the end points. That mechanism makes it possible for the neck’s (normally flat) plane to be adjusted.

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Single action (“one-way”) truss rods are only designed to counter upbow. There are still methods for combatting backbow on guitar necks equipped with single-action truss rods.

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You’ve probably seen many diagrams like the one above – you’ll note the red arrow pointing to a “natural” position with a surrounding “ideal” setting area. That’s what this article is all about really. So let’s talk about that very quickly before we look at the string action in relation.

The ideal shape for your neck is not straight. Many players learn early on that a truss rod is just meant for combatting warping, and naturally assume that a straight neck is what we’re trying to maintain. In actuality, we want a neck with a very slight concave (or upward bow).

When an electric guitar is strung up and tuned, it has about 200lbs of tension pulling the neck toward the bridge. While the neck’s wood does an excellent job of resisting this amount of tension, it does flex a tiny bit. This default amount of concave given by the string tension is marked as the “natural” position in the diagram.

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It just so happens that the vibrating strings will benefit from this slight concave in all of the right positions. This is illustrated below.

So, the ideal position for a truss rod’s setting is usually hovering around the place a wooden neck under tension would settle.

Before carrying on, if you’d like to know what this hydroscopic ‘breathing’ is that’s responsible for warping necks, you can take a look here.

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The center line is the string at rest, whilst the lines above and below represent the bounds of back-and-forth movement after being plucked/picked.

Here is a guitar with a perfectly straight neck with the nut and bridge at even heights. The string is parallel to the fretboard when it’s not moving.

With your nut and bridge set at even heights with the string close enough to the fretboard for easy fretting, you the string’s oscillations may cause fret buzz.

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To address this with an un-moving neck, you will have to raise the bridge action to ensure the string oscillation does not contact the upper frets (where the oscillation field is always widest).

Unfortunately, since the fretboard’s length is greater than 1/2 of the string’s length, and the string’s halfway point is the area at which it can oscillate the widest, the action of the fretboard area above the halfway point (12th fret) is liable to become too high for comfortable playing after bridge adjustments have been made to address fret buzz.

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In addition to the upper fretboard issues, people find when straightening a neck that has been set up with a slightly concave (ideal) truss rod setting previously, the string is suddenly too close to the lower frets and nut action needs to be raised to compensate there as well. This issue refers specifically to instances where a concaved setup is being straightened.

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The raised bridge height gives string clearance on a straight neck, but playability is difficult at the upper end of the fretboard due to the excess height.

Here is a guitar with a slightly loose truss rod setting (considered to be the ideal shape for a guitar/bass). You can see that the concave is minimal enough not to create a very noticeable difference in string height from the fretboard when comparing the nut end and the upper fret end.

The neck is curving upward toward the nut end, while the string is making a straight line between the nut and bridge. The bridge height has not been adjusted for this setup.

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To further hammer-in the usefulness of a truss rod, without even mentioning the necessity of an adjustable neck when using hydroscopic materials (wood), we can talk about scale length, string tension, radius, or changing nut/bridge hardware. Changes to any of these specifications can warrant truss adjustment to maintain perfect action across the fretboard. Many of those issues are dealt with in the setup guide & fret buzz article.The guitar truss rod is one of the most important parts of any acoustic or electric guitar because it enables us to adjust the guitar neck accurately for comfortable playing and long-term stability. Not all truss rods are created equally, though, and having the right type of truss rod can give the luthier significant advantages in adjusting the neck while building the guitar and doing the initial fretwork and set-up.

The truss rod’s importance during the guitar’s design and building phases is essential long after the guitar-building is complete. The truss rod’s ability to fine-tune the guitar neck relief (forward or back bow) is a key to maintaining playing comfort and great tone as the guitar neck naturally responds to the changes in its environment, such as humidity, different sets of strings and playing styles.

Truss

My hope is that this guide will help you choose the best truss rod for your guitar-building projects as we look closely at each type of truss rod, how they work, and what makes each style different. I’ll also be sharing what I have learned building my handmade guitars over the years, such as how to test your truss rod and how to install it properly.

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Lastly, we’ll discuss some tips, techniques and best practices for safely adjusting the truss rod of your guitar to improve or maintain its action, playability and stability for years to come.

A truss rod works by bending forward or backward inside the guitar’s neck when the adjustment nut is tightened or loosened (which way to turn a truss rod). On the most basic level, it can help to counteract the guitar strings’ pull as they will cause the neck to bow forward when they tuned up to pitch. But having a perfectly straight guitar neck is not optimal either. Having a very subtle forward bow to the neck is optimal for low and comfortable string action (we want the strings close to the tops of the fret wire for comfortable playing, but not so close that the strings buzz against them when in motion). The truss rod helps make the subtly adjust the neck bow to find a perfect balance and the sweet spot of playing comfort and a great-sounding guitar.

There are several types of truss rods that I have come across over the years but in this article, we will be focusing on the two main types that you will find in most guitars that you adjust or build.

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This type of truss rod usually consists of a single piece of steel that is threaded on one end to receive an adjustment nut and washer, and on the other end, it may be threaded on one side to receive an anchor bolt or bent into an L-shape.

These single-action truss rods must be inlaid into a curved slot in the neck so that when the rod is tightened at the nut, it wants to straighten out, exerting a force that pulls against the tension of the strings and helps to relieve the forward bow induced naturally into the neck by the tension of the strings tuned up to pitch. This type of truss rod can only bend the neck back and can not induce forward bow like some other types.

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A dual action or double-action guitar truss rod comes in several different forms, all sharing one thing in common: the addition of a second rod or metal bar above the main truss rod.

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 The top bar is somehow fixed in length, and the lower bar is threaded on each end to allow it to expand or contract in length, based on which direction the nut is turned while adjusting the truss rod. The adjustment nut is usually welded or somehow permanently fixed to the end of the lower rod to allow for precise adjustments. Better rods have threads designed for smooth and even adjustments to help get the neck bow just right.

I have seen a few other variations over the years, but these are the main styles that I have the most personal experience using in my work.

When I began building archtop guitars, I started in the traditional way, at least in the area of neck design. I used a standard single-action truss rod. The great thing about this type of truss rod is that it is very lightweight and allows the upper part of the channel to be routed into the neck to be filled back in with wood. This not only adds as little weight to

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