To hook up your guitar to your computer via a USB cable is a relatively simple and inexpensive job. You can make it more expensive if you are looking for a high quality solution and create a tangle of cables and boxes and great sound. If, however, what you want is a low cost way to plug your guitar into your music recording software, here’s how.
Install your audio software and a decent PC sound card if you already have one. You won’t be able to play or record through your computer without one. There are several free audio programs available for free download. One of the most popular is Audacity ™, which is available as a free download on most free download websites.
Plug one end of the USB cord into your computer’s USB port and the other into the converter box’s USB port. Converter boxes range in price from $60 to more than $100 or more depending on the quality of the output achieved by the box. Install any software that came with your converter on your PC according to the manufacturer’s directions
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Plug one end of the guitar cord into the guitar and the other end into the converter box. You can skip the converter box altogether and buy a cord that includes the converter within it in a one piece cord that has a quarter inch jack on one end that goes into the guitar and a USB jack at the other end. These adapters run from $30 at the low end and go much higher depending on the quality of output.
Power up your guitar with the computer on. The computer should recognize the guitar as a hardware device and install it automatically. Most systems won’t need additional drivers.
Open the audio software you will be using and on the main screen, select the guitar as the audio input device. You should be able to start a new project window and record while you play. It’s as easy as that.
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The USB connection provides you with lots of ways to improve the quality of the sound coming from your guitar. The quality of the conversion device you use, whether within the cable or in a separate box, will determine just how good your signal will be when it arrives at the computer and just how much you can do with it.
Spend some time learning the software (if any) that comes with your converter. It can help you generate a clean powerful signal from your guitar if you know how to use it.
Tom King published his first paid story in 1976. His book, Going for the Green: An Insider's Guide to Raising Money With Charity Golf, was published in 2008. He received gold awards for screenwriting at the 1994 Worldfest Charleston and 1995 Worldfest Houston International Film Festivals. King holds a Bachelor of Arts in communications from Southwestern Adventist College.Now that you’ve covered the basics of soldering, it’s time to take on a project. If you’re new to the technique, making cables is a great way to gain experience. It’s also fairly cheap and relatively risk-free. Besides a soldering iron and some solder, all you really need is some suitable cable and a couple of quarter-inch plugs. Let’s begin:
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There are plenty of places to buy instrument cable and I bought the Sommer SC-Spirit LLX Low-Loss Instrument Cable used in this project from a well-known online auction site. Rather than choose by brand name or colour, I look for capacitance-per-metre and outside diameter.
Capacitance is important, because lower capacitance equates to less treble rolloff. Although some prefer the treble ‘sweetening’ effect of high-capacitance cables, others prefer transferring as much audio information as possible from to amp.
Outside diameter is a consideration because the cable has to be compatible with the plugs you plan on using. For this project, I have Neutrik plugs – an NP2X-B and an NP2X-AU. The latter is a ‘silent’ jack, which means you can plug and unplug your without hearing any unwanted noise through your amp. These Neutrik plugs can accommodate cables up to 8.5mm in diameter and since the Sommer cable is 8mm, it will just fit.
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Professionals use wire strippers, but if you’re careful, you can get by with a craft knife. The first task is to strip off the black outer layer of insulation but before doing so, I push on the threaded boot that will eventually screw onto the rear of the plug. Don’t forget, otherwise you’ll have to de-solder your plug and do the whole job again.
Next, I carefully score around the cable about 15mm from the end, taking care not to cut into the braided shielding layer. The black outer layer pulls off to reveal the copper shielding. I use a small screwdriver tip to untangle the shielding wires, which are then pulled to one side and twisted together.
The centre signal wires are covered by a white plastic insulation layer, with a very thin black electrostatic shield that discharges static and keeps cables crackle-free. It’s important to strip this layer away from the exposed centre insulation.
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The twisted wires must be tinned and after heating the wires for a few seconds, the solder flows in to fuse everything together
I use a wire-stripper tool to expose about 4mm of the centre conductor, but you can use a blade instead, if you’re careful. Again, the exposed wires are twisted together and I repeat the whole procedure at the other end of the cable.
The twisted wires must be impregnated with solder – the aforementioned process also known as tinning. This is essential for achieving strong solder joints. I set my iron to about 375°C and touch the heated tip against the wires for a couple of seconds before adding the solder.
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The wires are all tinned in preparation for soldering and the electrostatic shield has been stripped back to expose the signal wire’s white insulation
If the twisted wires are hot enough, the solder flows in quickly. But take care, because it’s easy to melt the insulation by accident if you leave the iron there too long. With all four twisted wires properly tinned, attention turns to the plugs.
When soldering onto metal objects such as pot casings and plugs, it helps to apply some solder to the object before attempting to connect the wires
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To make the solder connections as easy as possible, I apply solder to the plugs in advance. I allow the solder to flow and pool up on the surface at the back of the plugs where the shield wires will attach and the small cupped recesses where the centre wires are soldered.
If you try holding a plug in your hand while you’re soldering onto it, you’ll burn yourself. Instead, use a vice, tape the plug onto a heat-resistant surface or use a soldering clamp with crocodile clips like the one in the pictures.
The gaps between the clips can be altered by sliding them along a bar, and this makes it very easy to position the cable and the plug while you’re making the solder joints. I ensure that I solder the shield connections first, followed by the centre wire.
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Neutrik’s instructions stipulate that the end of the plastic chuck needs to be snapped off when the cable’s outer diameter exceeds 5mm. Once done, I clip the chuck onto the cable and slide it over the solder joints. The jack’s outer cover is slipped over the plug section and the boot slides up to meet it before they are screwed together.
The chuck is positioned over the solder joints and we’re ready to slip the cover over the plug and screw it onto the boot
In the process, the chuck tightens around the cable to hold it firmly and ensure there’s never any physical strain to compromise the solder joints.
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If you have made it this far, you can test your new cable using a multimeter – or simply plug it into your amp and see if it works. If it doesn’t, either one or more solder joints has failed, or the shield and signal wires are shorted. This is usually the result of stray shield wires that escaped tinning. But the chances are that it
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